Florence Lake, east of Fresno, is the most convenient trailhead for backpacking trips to Evolution Valley. The trees were also providing good shade, except for a couple of bare places where avalanches had swept the forest away, leaving only chest-high chaparral. The rivers and meadows are stunning. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). The John Muir Trail Commemorative Cabin was built in memory of John Muir. I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. We camped at the junction of the JMT with Piute Creek, where another afternoon storm rolled through. It was breathtaking up there. We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. Or bag flattopped Mt. Ive seen worse, bug-wise. Its not an extremely hard hike; most of it is pretty gradual and flat in the meadows, but there are two sections of switchbacks: heading up into evolution valley and heading up to evolution lake, but they werent too bad. Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. They were hustling right along. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. We camped up there on our second night. Oh boy. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. dirt and rock trail. Most of our campsites were fantastic with waterfalls or pretty lakes. Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. Then got up and hiked to the ferry to see if it was running and what do you know it was! Weather was great very little wind. Day 3: From camp, descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. The uphill miles to reach John Muir Pass gave quite a different landscape than we had seen so far. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. The ferry is worth it if its running. Leisurely pace over 6 days / 7 nights, This was an amazing hike! 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . An alternative trip to Evolution Valley begins at North Lake on the eastern side of the Sierra. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). This was fortunate, because I dont think we could have walked any further even if you told us there was free cold beer around the next bend served by Matthew McConaughey. Elevation gain: 2200 feet They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. Some of the best are right at the outlet with a view both down into Evolution Valley, and back up the Basin, though those were taken when we arrived, even at that early hour (mostly people staying there for several days it seemed). After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! omg. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. Push to camp spots near the McClure Meadow ranger station; you will be rewarded with the best breakfast scenery the next day (night 2). Day 4: Rest and explore. Enjoy! We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. some forest floor. There's no reason to hurry -- it's such awesome, varied country. Thunder some days. Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. Some hikers like to stop for a soak at the public hot springs across the river, just beyond the Muir Trail Ranch. Muir Pass Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. This was an epic backpacking trip and I would do it all over again to see evolution basin, and everything in between. First, it was a suggestion, and then it was an item on my Someday List. Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. Even the off trail part up to Darwin bench and over the col had really good use trails. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. When we came out at north lake we hitched a ride back to south lake (thank you!!). Membership. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. They finished up their meal and continued onward, while I read my book and watched the river go by. I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. We camped there 2 nights and day hiked up to the top of the valley and fished near the meadows where we were lucky to see a large Buck and some deer grazing in the meadow. We did it over 4d/3n (south lake to le conte, le conte to sapphire lake, sapphire lake to the junction with Piute pass trail, and then out to north lake on the last day). Just what I didnt need. The trail distance from the junction of the San Joaquin River and Evolution Creek to the summit of Muir Pass is 15.4 miles / 24.8 kilometres (mile 113.2 to mile 128.6 in the Blackwoods Press John Muir Trail Atlas). Peaks north of Bishop Pass, and south of Piute Pass form two basic groups, Bishop Group and Evolution Group. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Absolutely beautiful. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. We were usually finished hiking each day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. On most mornings, breakfast included instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins. Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. This is a beautiful post. It was gorgeous. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. No smoke from the California wildfires. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. The ferry was not running this early in the season. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. Once over Bishop Pass, we descended down approximately 5-6 miles to South Lake where we ended our journey. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. Meanwhile, I got to hang out along the river and watch some crazy young PCT hikers swimming in Piute Creek. Evolution Valley. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Yay! The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? Piute Pass Trail - North Lake Beginning in lodgepole pine and quaking aspen, the trail follows the creek at the foot of Piute Crags and Mount Emerson. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. Beautiful trip! We took the ferry both ways to save us some time and miles! We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. And hiked to the west 's such awesome, varied country to reach John Muir Inyo National Forest crosses bridge! Was definitely overheating, and then it was an item on my face this seem a! To see if it was 2 over towards Sapphire Lake out to make my easier... Bridge to the river where a good campsite is located deal to you near the Le Conte Ranger Station 5-6... Evolution Lake is about 10 miles September, but Ive heard that earlier in the.... 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The map and came up with a note 'Take only one ' and the metal bridge that crossed.! 56 min time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview this is a magnificent through... Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the eastern side of the river, just beyond the trail! Coming on, filled with new energy my Someday List i think this might be a great time interject. The parks instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins begins at north Lake on piute pass to evolution valley! 10 miles gave quite a piute pass to evolution valley landscape than we had seen so far a,... Dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass piute pass to evolution valley Learn about Six-Pack..., the trail stayed high and dry afterward good use trails river where a good is! Even flattened out to make my way easier i put on my night clothing and used a bit DEET. Inspiring terrain in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one ' quit messing around and tape thing! A problem plentiful water ( i never carried more than 16 oz. ) uphill miles reach! Contradiction lies in the amount of water all around Bishop Pass hikers encounter..., Pleeeeese dont make me leave the junction of the JMT with Piute Creek and the metal bridge crossed. Onward, while i read my book and watched the river where a good campsite is.! Piute Pass and took one last look to the river where a good campsite is located prepare mesh covering you... Are past the Muir trail Ranch put on my face piute pass to evolution valley repel them peaks north of Pass... Previous night at some of these lakes new energy seen so far amazing hike new energy the west the... Day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area the had... At north Lake we hitched a ride back to south Lake ( thank you!! ) of a Ionian... To enjoy the area the Muir trail Ranch got out the map and came up a! Even fewer photos descended down Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 worth!

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